|Period:||1980 - 2015|
Flower necklace made of silver and peridot. (Dried) flowers can be attached to the silver cups, with studs set with peridot. Dutch design by Philip Sajet (born 1953).
Philip Sajet is a thoroughbred jewellery designer. He makes jewellery for the sake of jewellery, and cannot be accused of straying into other design fields or art forms. His sectarian approach is his strength. All his work attests to an awareness that, as a high-profile contemporary jewellery designer, he is making a contribution to the incredibly long history of jewellery - no more and certainly no less. He often adheres to accepted forms, sometimes quite literally picking up the thread in striking jewellery types and going on from where his predecessors left off. He has even made a necklace combining his own history as a jewellery-maker. (Remnanten 2) In that way he has captured the essence of his profession in many a piece - the archetypes that everyone will recognise. And yet he has succeeded in adding something unique to his necklaces, rings, bracelets and earrings that makes them just that bit different. When you consider his work from the past twenty years, you are struck by a glorious palette that is rarely found in contemporary jewellery. Rather, it is comparable with the colours used in Renaissance works or with the ostentation of Byzantium. In the nineteen-eighties and nineties he defied prevailing ideas often working with enamel a bewitchingly beautiful technique for adding colour to jewellery. That, and his preference for all kinds of stones and differing metals, has enabled him produce a sumptuous range of colours. And enamel has once more become one of his favourite techniques. In his work he appeals to the basic human need to adorn one´s person: the quest for beauty, the urge to be different, the attributing of personal meanings to an object made from lasting materials and, in particular, the feeling of belonging. His jewellery nearly always contains a duality: old-new, sharp-smooth, rough-polished. That is the designer´s basic equity, he can do with it whatever he wants. For the spectator it is not so easy. What I have always found exciting in his jewellery is the unfulfilled longing. His work is sensual, he seduces you with form and colour, and he particularly likes to make jewellery you have to wear against your skin. But at the same time, you experience a sharpness, sometimes literally, against your skin. If you want to relate well to his work, you must be constantly on your guard.
(Marjan Unger from: Sajet Jewellery, 2011)
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